In another post of this blog, I wrote about the critiques surrounding
the zero-miles food theory. To sum up, the problem is that today
people travel around the world and live big parts of their lives far
from their birthplaces much more than in the past. All of this has
caused displacement, and food from birthplaces is the easiest and
best way of curing distress. That's why Italian people living in
London don't buy zero-miles English food, but lots-of-miles pasta and
Parmigiano. And the same happens to the Indians living in Europe, the
Egyptians in the US, and so on.
In addition, much research has demonstrated that sometimes importing
food from other countries is less polluting than growing food at
home. Finally, many local companies are selling their products on the
internet globally, sending local foods to other countries and thus
contradicting the basic rule of the theory. Interestingly, those who
buy this local food are both people suffering with food nostalgia and
people who have nothing to do with the geographic origins of that
food. As a result, the idea of eating food coming from the same area
where one lives is still fascinating in theory, but is becoming less
feasible in practice.
If we assume that the zero food miles theory is in difficulty, we
must also assume that the companies producing and selling local food
have a problem. In fact, these companies have often based their
communication on the fact that they are a zero food miles company.
Now that the theory is less fascinating, new questions arise. Why do
people buy local food? How should local food companies promote their
products?
The problem is already here, and some of these companies are looking
for new strategies. Interestingly, Italian national channels are
broadcasting the commercial of mozzarella Francia, a local brand
which is very popular in the area surrounding Rome. This brand has
often promoted its products by underlining its local production
process. The new commercial, instead, ignores the local character of
the brand, which is now available in many Italian regions and is in
fact promoted on national channels. The commercial focuses on the
fact that this mozzarella doesn't contain citric acid and other
ingredients extraneous to mozzarella's traditional recipe, only
containing milk, salt and rennet. Thus, the commercial seems to say:
“Wherever you live and were born, buy it because it's local, and
thus it's good”
I strongly believe that local food will be increasingly successful in
the near future. However, what I also believe is that the people who
will buy it will live far from the region where that food has been
produced. They will buy it either for nostalgia or because they
simply like it., because it's better than the global counterpart By
contrast, local foods will decreasingly be bought as it is produced
close to home. In short, the famous lardo di Colonnata will be
more successful out of than in Colonnata.
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